Slurpee

(Climb date: Sunday March 20, 2011)

I was hoping to lead most of the WI4 routes up near WD40 and Green Monster area before the end of this ice season, so I headed back to Evan-Thomas Creek with Rafal.

For something different, we took the approach straight up the creek when it turns into a canyon.  I haven’t gone that way since 1995 when I was first in this part of the creek with Tony Barton.  

A good trail took a high line way up the cliffs, higher than Tony and I did back in the day.  Good trail, but very narrow in sections, parts of trail had help from mini snow bridges. Arrived at WD40 much quicker.

Turns out my lack of ice climbing for about 5 weeks messed up my head space a bit.  First looked at WD40, but the quality of the ice was poor and starting to get anemic, so we headed to Green Monster.  

Once I put my nose against the steep ice (probably in grade 5 shape right now), I knew I wasn’t going up there.

We headed back downstream to Slurpee.  Walked up to the 25 metre pillar and the ice quality looked great.  The tight canyon/bowl protects this route from the strength of the spring sun and the ice was good to go!

Geared up and launched into a brisk lead, then the grovel began… 

the pillar was definitely in grade 4 shape and quite pumpy, and one had to dig a bit for screws.  Again the lack of leading ice for more than 5 weeks lowered my confidence and I had a desire to sew up the route a bit.

Bad call; the search for ice that would take a descent screw and digging for good ice started to pump me out quickly.  I had to hang dog a few times, but eventually I got my sorry ass up the route.  Poor Raf had to put up with my complaining the whole time.

Once I reach the top of the pillar, I continue up the easy last 15 metres.  My top rope anchor was at a bad angle to start, but eventually I tuned it up and Raff and I had our way with the pillar. 

After a bunch of laps, we turned the pillar into an easy peg board and called it a day.

Quick walk out and home before dark.