(Climb date: Sunday December 19, 2010)
Sunday Heather, Ben and I headed to Kananaskis Valley. Both Ben and Heather were keen for some WI 3 type climbing. I was always curious about two ice climbs along the Opal Range, on the West Face of Mt. Hood. Jojo's ice guidebook provides two unclear route descriptions for these two routes. One route is clearly visible from the Highway at Hood Creek. Being visible from the highway matches with the description for Waxy Referendum, but the NTS grid reference and the approach time are off. The K-country map in Jojo's book shows The Blue Door in the same drainage as WF.
We parked on the highway at Hood Creek and began the long slog to the ice route. We were all concerned about the scary and steep snow slope below the route, but I was sure we could find a safe approach. Well after 3+ hours of slogging, we all decided the snow was too scary to approach the route. We bailed about 50 metres from the route. I did spy another flow of grade 3 ice north of us, also on the West Face of Hood. Based on the material in Jojo's book, I think the big, blue ice route easily visible from the highway is "The Blue Door" and "Waxy Referendum" is the other route I saw. We didn't head to the other route because of avi concerns and the complexity of terrain.
I felt bad that we slogged in and out for about 6 or so hours, so I suggested a quick blast up and down the ice at King Creek. So we did the short drive south to King Creek. We arrived at the ice minutes before sunset. We quickly gear up and I ran up a brittle 40 metres of grade 3 ish ice. Reached the belay by headlamp and quickly brought up Heather and Ben. Fun ice lead in the dark.
So far J's tools are getting me out more; last ice season (2009/2010) I ice climbed twice, so far this season, I been out 3 times!
Cheers
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